Clover

193 Swan St
Richmond, VIC 3121
https://www.clover.wine/

After a disappointing meal last week, I was looking for something to scratch that wine bar itch. And you know what? I’ll just come out and say it – Clover hit it right out of the park. I felt immediately at home in the rustic yet suave neighbourhood bolthole, but what really won me over was the amazing smells emanating from the hearth. With the entire menu cooked solely over fire, Clover combines the smoky simplicity of Embla with the seasonal freshness of Cumulus Inc. And if you know what I – heck, what all of Melbourne – thinks of those two hospitality stalwarts, you’ll know that’s high praise indeed.

Rating: 16/20 – four leaf clover.
What to order: the menu is tiny, the prices are sensible, and it’s all very good, so it’s tempting to get one of everything. but the food is surprisingly rich, so don’t go too crazy, at least not to start with.
Highlights: the mocktails. finally, us non-drinkers can get bevs of the same quality. try the temperance collins it is marvellous.

Heirloom Tomatoes, Smoked Sunflower ($18)

I love tomato season, and oh my is the Heirloom Tomatoes, Smoked Sunflower ($18) good, with luscious juices just oozing out of the ripe fruit, its natural umami brought out by the smoky, creamy sunflower seed puree. The flavours are so pure and punchy you could almost get drunk off the quality of the produce.

Honey Bread ($11)

And to mop up that intoxicating blend of tomato and cream? A thick wedge of Honey Bread ($11), which has all of the flavour of sourdough, but none of the toughness. It comes with a dollop of lightly salted butter, mixed through with peppery nigella seeds to cut through the fat.

Whipped Cod Roe ($10)

You don’t need to, but the bread can also be supplemented with a dish of Whipped Cod Roe ($10). Silky and rich, what really makes this rendition stand out is the sofrito of smoky peppers.

Swordfish ($52)

The mains here are simple – usually one or two animal proteins, and a Market Fish ($MP). And today, it was a gorgeous plank of Swordfish ($52), the firm flesh cooked to a delicious medium-rare over the flames, for a meaty yet still pearly texture. Served in a creamy white pepper velouté dappled with dill oil, it takes advantage of the hearty fish to make for a satiating seafood main.

Roast Potatoes, Comte ($15)

It would be a crime not to get the Roast Potatoes, Comte ($15). Roasted in coals until the skin is blistered, and the centre waxy and buttery, the potatoes are then slightly smashed, in order to maximise contact with the sticky cheese sauce. Absolute winner.

Ranch Salad ($13)

For a lighter accompaniment, there is always something green. The Ranch Salad ($13) is done wedge style, the leaves layered with fresh herbs, and dolloped with a deeply savoury dressing. Yes there is cheese grated over the top, but not so much that you lose out on the freshness of the salad.

Berry Trifle ($16)

Desserts here are highly seasonal, and for our Aussie Christmas in summer, there’s a Berry Trifle ($16). Admittedly, this reminds me more of a shortcake, with its saccharine combination of syrupy strawberries, lemon cake, and thickened cream. But is it delicious? You bet.

Temperance Collins ($16)/Teetotal Tommy ($16)

They’re very proud of their wine list here at Clover, but if you ask me, the non-alcoholics also deserve accolade. The Temperance Collins ($16) is one of the most delicious mocktails I’ve ever had. The combination of strawberries may be sweet and summery, but it’s the botanicals in the Seedlip spirit that really brings out the delicate floral notes of the fruit, making for a drink with all the subtleties and nuance of a good cocktail. Following close on its heels is the Teetotal Tommy ($16), which provides all the zesty fun of a good margarita, and highlights the caramel sweetness of the agave syrup. My only question is, would a salt rim complete the experience?

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