Frenchie

1/15 Collins St
Melbourne, VIC 3000
https://www.frenchierestaurant.au/

I’m not usually a fan of French food, finding it too stuffy and hung up on tradition. But when everything at Frenchie is $14 a pop (yes, including most of the alcohol), and their coasters proclaim Bon Appétit B*tch, well, that’s a different story. Frenchie is all about having a good time without taking it too seriously. The décor reflects this cheeky, irreverent attitude; although there is velvet and chandeliers galore, it feels much more nightclub than starched tablecloths, especially once you take into account the generous bar backlit by a LED feature wall. But despite the fact that even mediocre food would probably get people through the door, Frenchie actually delivers surprisingly refined fare. Yes, the portions are small, but I would argue they’re still excellent value, and has the added benefit of allowing even small groups to try multiple dishes – win-win.

Rating: 14.5/20 – c’est la f*cking vie.
The best bits: gnocchi, clams with fries, their adorable mascot.
The worst bits: service. forgot our drink, delivered the wrong drink, 3 requests before we got the bill. all within 90 minutes.

The Palourdes Frites ($14) is the epitome of simple pleasures. Plump clams, cooked in white wine and parsley, are tossed over a bed of golden fries to soak up the aromatic juices. Pete nearly got into a whole lot of trouble from me with how quickly he was downing this.

The Petits Choux de Crabe ($14, 3pcs) is a tasty little bite, the puffy pastry piled high with a mixture of crab, mayonnaise, and avocado. If I were to be picky, I would note that the filling would be better at room temperature, rather than fridge-cold.

The Seiches Grillées ($14) was a gorgeous way to showcase quality ingredients. The generous serving of cuttlefish was char-grilled to tenderness, and topped with a fresh sauce vierge of tomatoes, olives, and pinenuts, bringing vividly to mind a Mediterranean summer.

The Magret de Canard à l’Orange ($14) is a small taste of luxury without the price tag. The duck breast was perfectly pink and juicy, served with a robust burnt orange sauce, the bitter-sweet caramelisation contrasting with the fatty duck for a rich yet balanced flavour.

I had expected the Tartare de Betterave ($14) to be a salad, but turns out the beetroot was served tartare style (hence the name, go figure). Regardless, I really enjoyed the rustic winter sweetness of this dish, and the shredded green apples on top added an unexpected bite of juicy freshness.

The other favourite of the day was the Gnocchi à la Parisienne ($14). These were absolute decadence, each pan-fried dumpling beautifully light and fluffy, infused with truffle, and topped with a generous shaving of parmesan. I could order a double serve of these and call it a day.

To wrap up, the Mousse au Chocolat ($14) ultimately won over the crème brûlée (though it was a close one). I loved the rich bitterness of the cocoa, which made the simple dessert feel much more sophisticated, and the biscuit crumble over the top made for some textural interest.

There’s a generous share of cocktails on the menu, but the Parisian Iced Tea ($14) was definitely one of the more interesting ones. With a surprisingly spicy profile accompanying the citrus notes, this is a great choice for when you want something refreshing, but not acidic.