Marmont

Crown Melbourne
8 Whiteman St
Melbourne, VIC 3000
https://marmontbar.com/

On the grounds of what was once Rosetta sits Marmont, a new-ish comer to the Crown Complex food scene. Unlike its predecessor, which has always seemed rather old-fashioned and stuffy (living up marvellously to its name), Marmont is a breath of vitality. With a loosely Californian-inspired menu, the focus is on crowd-pleasing share plates served in a summery, open plan space designed for mingling, making it no-brainer for after work shindigs of all sizes. Unsurprisingly for restaurants that line the Southbank precinct, the food is somewhat hit or miss, relying more on the location to draw in the customers. But I won’t lie – between the riverside views, casual-luxe atmosphere, and a few dishes that carried the meal, I actually had a really good time.

Rating: 12.5/20 – passes the vibe check.
I’m happy and sad: the baked brie en croute with truffle is amazing, but unfortunately seasonal.
Special thanks: to my very patient light-holder who let me move his arm around like a $7.99 temu lamp.

The Raw Fish Selection ($29) unfortunately looked way better than it tasted. When served so simply, the sashimi really needs to shine, and it was really obvious that the quality here is just adequate. In fact, my favourite part was actually the bed of pickled fennel, which was especially delicious piled onto the richer bites.

The Buckwheat Flatbread, Whipped Cod Roe ($16) left a lot to be desired on the cod roe front, but the flatbread was marvellous – light, fluffy, and generously brushed with good olive oil.

The Buttermilk Fried Chicken ($16) garnered mixed opinions. Pete did not love how thick and nubbly the batter was, but I enjoyed the added texture and crunch. We agreed however that the batter was bland, though the pickled chilli and honey combo went a long way in rectifying that.

The Baked Brie en Croute ($39) was by far the most delicious thing of the night. Cutting through laminated pastry that would make a French pâtissier proud, the melted brie oozed forward in a golden river, flecked with black truffle. The combination of buttery pastry, the rich earthiness of cheese and truffle, and the sweetness of caramelised onion and quince, is a masterpiece in winter decadence.

I always love seeing seasonal veggies – such as Jerusalem Artichoke ($22) – on a menu. This promises a hearty side for when fries are too pedestrian, the small tubers roasted to a mild, nutty sweetness, then glazed with an Asian inspired combination of sesame oil and soy.

Drinks-wise, the Negroni ($22) was a classic well done, the warmth of the coriander seed turning the summery drink into something a little more cold-weather appropriate.