Oden Sake Bar

137 Bourke St
Melbourne, VIC 3000
https://www.theoden.com.au/

When I think oden, I think of those perpetually bubbling tubs of fish cakes in stew, found ubiquitously in Japanese convenience stores throughout the colder months. Oden Sake Bar is here to prove that this winter staple is more than just a food safety nightmare. But despite the traditional comfort that is oden, this sake bar actually feels distinctly modern, with its moody interior humming with jazz, and a menu that borrows effortlessly from across the globe. It is a lovely, unique, and thoughtful addition to the city.

Rating: 14/20 – food safety compliant.
Must-order: THE DANGO OMG. but also the oden obvs.

I’ve told this story a million times, but this is my blog so I can do what I want. I used to love steamed egg custard as a child, until I one time I went way too ham on it, and subsequently could not look at it again for like a whole decade. Anyway, Chawanmushi ($12) is what’s been slowly rehabilitating the steamed egg genre for me. This is a really fun take, the strong seafood notes highlighted by the unexpected fresh umami of the tomato and dill oil.

Continuing the Eurasian theme, the Spring Roll ($8ea) is stuffed with avocado and oozy camembert for maximal textural contrast to the crispy pastry. The cheese is surprisingly musky, pairing well with the hint of sweetness in the spicy mayo.

The Seasonal Fruits and Stracciatella ($22) was a bit of a ‘eh why not’ gamble, but turns out it was just cheese and jamon on a bed of grapes. It was delicious though; the flavours are a classic for a reason. The only part I have questions on is the verjus jelly – interesting, but didn’t do much in my books other than make the dish watery.

I was underwhelmed by the Bonito Tataki ($26). Nothing wrong with it, but I just expected something punchier.

Oden time! Specifically, Three Oden, Your Choice with Miso Stock ($22). We got 2 serves between the two of us, and managed to try all but a couple items on the menu. And the long and short of it is that you can’t really go wrong – it’s all good.

Getting a bit more specific, I love the subtle range of textures and flavours in the different items, all chosen to soak up and complement the light yet deeply aromatic miso broth. If you were to just get one serve of 3 pieces however, I would recommend the Mochi-Kinchaku, a juicy tofu pocket filled with chewy mochi and julienned root veggies, the Octopus Cake, which tasted like takoyaki in oden form, and the Pork Belly, which was lusciously succulent and fatty.

To round out the savouries, a flawlessly executed Mini Duck Ramen ($12). The duck was pink and perfectly juicy, the noodles had just the right amount of chew, and the stock was satisfyingly meaty without overwhelming the delicate nuances of the duck.

Custard Caramel Pudding ($10) is very popular in Japan – once again, ubiquitous in the convenience stores – and this rendition was smooth and creamy, with a richly bitter caramel sauce.

But my heart, oh my heart. It goes to the Char-Grilled Mochi Dango ($8). The contrast between chewy centre and lightly crisp shell, as well as the hint of smokiness coming through the thick sweet soy, is utterly transcendent in its immaculately executed simplicity. I would visit just for a chance to order half a dozen of these.

Though a sake bar, there is no shortage of other things to sip on, including the non-alcoholic Hojicha Spice Highball ($16), the effervescence of the yuzu soda grounded by the warmth of roasted rice and ginger.