Pacho Taqueria

Shop 809-1, Prahran Market
163 Commercial Rd
South Yarra, VIC 3141
https://pacho.com.au/

Fonda was one of the first places to bring what was even close to real Mexican food to Melbourne, and whilst I will always respect that legacy, Fonda is feeling a little… corporate these days, and definitely not so authentic. Thankfully one of their original chefs have since peeled off and opened Pacho Taqueria. What it lacks in space – it’s a storefront in Prahran Market – it makes up for in spirit. The menu is small but punchy, centred around tacos, with a few snacks and specials to go alongside. The quality is phenomenal, easily restaurant level, but with an effortless street food vibe to it. The Prahran area may be full of good eats, but this one is definitely worth a detour to the market.

Rating: 14/20 – this is what fonda could’ve been.
How cool! – the serve-your-own salsa station in the mortar and pestle sets on the counter.

The Birria Tacos ($22, 3pcs) is the signature, and oh yes you absolutely should. It is slow-cooked beefy goodness, stuffed into a fragrant corn tortilla, then pan-fried until the shell is golden and rimmed with melted cheese. It is already oozy and juicy as it is, but it must be dunked into the potent adobo beef broth, which has a hidden kick of spice and acidity to balance out the decadent flavours.

And just a single Baja Fish Taco ($11), because I often find it the easiest way to gauge the quality of a taqueria. Like the Birria Tacos, these were excellent. The double tortilla immediately garners points from me, the extra layer providing essential structural integrity to hold up the mess of sour cream and slaw. But as you’d hope, it’s the fish that stands out. Lightly fried into the curl of ocean swell, the light batter carries the warmth of spices without any of the heaviness, allowing the fresh seafood to shine.

I love Chilaquiles ($17) – the breakfast dish that is basically an excuse to eat nachos in the morning. This rendition is excellent; it’s as fresh as it is hearty and moreish. The slow-cooked chicken tinga flirts with the contrastingly tangy green salsa, mellowed out by a gentle snow of cotija cheese. Best of all, the tortilla chips were smothered in a rich salsa rojo, turning a simple chip into a flavour-packed mouthful of texture.