Sogumm

466 Church St
Cremorne, VIC 3121

I was more than a little skeptical when multiple online publications claimed that Sogumm did Korean food like nowhere else in Melbourne. But intrigued by the owners/chefs’ dual fine-dining pedigrees and training in Buddhist cooking, I was ready to see what they had to offer. And you know what? There really is nothing else like Sogumm in Melbourne. The food may be familiar and comforting, but it is also quietly complex and nuanced, yet also clean and nourishing. There are so many facets to the food here, and each of them shows the exquisite balance and care taken in crafting every element. Guys, the hype is real.

Rating: 14.5/20 – one of a kind.
Must-order: vegan bibimbap. for reals.
Did you know: sogumm means salt, and the name pays homage to the understated but central role it plays in the creation of the pickles, ferments, and sauces that are so critical to Korean cooking.

I was entranced by the photos I had seen of the Potato Kimchi Jeon ($18), with its lacy web of finely shredded potato, gently cooked to a rich gold (“it’s a giant hash brown!”, exclaimed Chris). And the reality is even better than it looks. Not only do you get both hearty potato and crisp edges, the delicate shreds fall apart in the most effortless way to showcase a centre of mild, delicately tangy kimchi. They’ve turned a traditionally stodgy, heavy dish into something subtle and elegant, without losing any of the comfort food factor. Consider me impressed.

The wind chill was off the charts, and Gomtang ($24) is the perfect antidote. With a clear broth gently infused with the flavour of slow-cooked brisket, soaking into a bed of pearly rice, this bowl is more than just a way to warm up – it is a moment of calm and comfort. But that’s not to say it’s boring. The slices of brisket and shank are impressively tender, the restrained use of seasoning really showcasing the mellow, buttery flavours of the beef. And don’t forget the radish kimchi, which is painstakingly made in-house, its cool bitter crunch contrasting vividly against the warmth of the gocharu. It is leaps and bounds beyond anything you can buy from a shop.

I was dubious about the Gang-Doenjang Bibimbap ($24) up until the very last moment. I mean, how can an unassuming vegan bibimbap, which doesn’t use any alliums (as per Buddhist tradition) to boot, even compare? As it turns out, this was easily, easily the best bibimbap I’ve ever had. The rice comes pre-mixed with their house-fermented doenjang, which had a remarkable depth of flavour and umami, as well as a surprising richness. The vegetables are simply done, so you can taste the freshness and seasonality. To go with it, a small dish of perfectly crisp kimchi, with a complex flavour profile and a delicate crunch.

And because I’m greedy, I also tried the Premium Wagyu Brisket Galbi-Jjim ($24, small). And honestly, the sticky, sweet-savoury sauce, boosted with the umami of mushroom and a healthy crack of black pepper, is the best accompaniment to the meltingly tender brisket. Dump this over a bowl of rice, and I’m a happy camper.