Anchovy

338 Bridge Road
Richmond, VIC 3121
https://www.anchovy.net.au/

Anchovy had been on my to-eat list for so long that it literally closed, was replaced by Jeow, then re-opened (Jeow moved next door) before I managed to get there. But here we finally are. The food is Vietnamese, but not as you know it. Whilst still boasting the bold yet clean flavours of the cuisine, it has also adopted the cooly minimalistic features characteristic of higher-end Modern Australian cuisine. ‘Best described as acculturated’, according to their website. What I like best about it is its fresh take on traditional flavours, all whilst fully preserving the spirit of the original. The service also kicks butt, though I still maintain that the sparse dining room is a little stark for such convivial food. Still, if you can manage to get a booking in the small space, I would consider that a major win.

Rating: 13.5/20 – ngl, acculturated is a new one.
Must-order: bánh flan.

The Hoành Thánh ($34) were apparently the stand-out dish, and true – these are some top-notch pork and prawn wontons, studded unexpectedly with the crunch of water chestnut, and floating in a restorative broth warmed with white pepper. But just to be contrary, I will argue you can get something similar for about half the price at a good Chinese restaurant.

The Fried Globe Artichoke ($15) however are definitely unique, the tender-crisp segments reminiscent of mini chicken drumsticks, to be picked up with your hands and dipped in a punchy, sambal-esque curry sauce.

Having looked up menus beforehand (as you do), I was tossing up between the Silver Needle Noodle ($35) and the Lao Pork Sausage Casarecce. Unfortunately the latter was no longer available by the time I got there, so at least I was spared the decision-making, if not the disappointment.

Not that the Silver Needle Noodle was disappointing – far from it. Made with tapioca flour, these chunky noodles were deliciously saucy and slippery. The addition of sprouts and papaya provided a refreshing contrast of crunch, whilst the caramelisation at the bottom of the clay pot added an extra dimension to the meaty king brown mushrooms.

Ooh yeah, gimme them charred brassicas! The Grilled Hispi Cabbage ($18) is excellent, the indecently lush layers edged with smoke, the sweetness of the vegetable brought out by the earthy funk of the fermented tofu dressing.

I love winter melon, the unappreciated vegetable that also doubles as a common dessert feature in Asian cuisine. And the Winter Melon, Lemon Sorbet, Salted Coconut ($15) had some great flavours, though the layered terrine was a bit unwieldly to eat with a spoon. The result was a bit ugly-delicious, but that’s never been a problem in my books.

I’m glad we decided to go for double dessert, because the Bánh Flan ($15) was sensational. The decadently smooth and creamy texture of the pudding was balanced out by a darkly aromatic coffee caramel that’s clearly designed to mimic Vietnamese coffee with its rich sweetness. And they told me that they make this stuff by the enormous tray; you know divulging this kind of information is how you get your kitchen looted, right?

You ever had those salted pickled plums growing up? If you did (and assuming you liked them), you will ADORE the Salted Plum & Hibiscus Iced Tea ($10). For the uninitiated however, the degree of saltiness on the backdrop of tangy fruit might be a bit much at first. My suggestion? Sip it slowly – it’s a great booze-free aperitivo.