Hopper Joint

157 Greville St
Prahran, VIC 3181
https://www.hopperjointmelbourne.com.au/

I adored my first encounter with genuine Sri Lankan food and hoppers at Lankan Filling Station, so I was rather excited when Hopper Joint opened up shop. Bringing a gentrified but authentic experience of South Asian cooking to inner Melbourne, the menu here encourages communal eating and getting your hands dirty – but don’t worry, there’s a handsome sink in the middle of the dining room, complete with plush hand towels and Aesop soap; this is Prahran after all. The community vibe is exemplified by the outstanding service and the happy buzz of the dining room, and the bottomless hoppers don’t hurt either. Flavour-wise, this is admittedly not quite as good as Lankan Filling Station, but there were enough highlights and charm to the meal that I walked away satisfied. All up, the experience is definitely  more than the sum of its parts.

Rating: 13/20 – stunning service.
Must-order: dry black pork curry, mango fluff.
Best bit: ring the bell on your table, and someone will rush over with a fresh platter of hoppers!

All diners need to order the Traditional Hopper Set ($45.9), but with 9 curries to choose from (you can pick any two), plus two sambols, and unlimited plain hoppers along with an egg hopper, this is no hardship. The Dry Black Pork Curry is a stand-out, the pile tender, slow-braised meat enhanced with a crust of warm, earthy spice. Its nutty flavours were further enhanced by the addition of Seeni Sambol – a sticky, jammy tangle of caramelised onions, sweetened with cinnamon and tamarind. The Prawn Curry fared less well; though there was a good whack of green chilli, the gravy felt thin, and there were only 3 prawns to go around. It was partially improved by the creamy yolk of the egg hopper, but I wouldn’t get this one again.

I was excited by the Okra Curry, but the execution (and flavour) fell a little flat, despite the welcome char on the vegetable. The Market Fish Curry was pretty good though, the firm, flaky white fish a natural accompaniment to the coconut-based Pol Sambal, and my favourite for dipping the airy, lace-edged hoppers in.

Rounding out the meal is a selection of short eats, aka quick snacks to pre-game your hopper feast. The Pan Roll (15.9, 2pcs), advertised as Sri Lanka’s answer to the ironic Aussie Chiko Roll, feels like a conglomeration of Australian fast-food staples, the thick battered crepe encasing a sloppy curried brisket that’s not unlike what you’d find in a meat pie. I would accuse this of erring a little on the bland side, were it not for the phenomenal tomato chutney, which had an amazing balance of sweet and savoury, with just the right amount of spice.

Snacks don’t come more fun than the Roadside Pineapple ($10.9), which is authentically served in a (compostable) plastic bag. The combination of juicy, tart pineapple, and the warmth of chilli and pepper, is a surefire way to whet the appetite. I can only imagine how good this would be with in-season pineapple from the topics!

I was drawn in by the Mango Fluff ($16.9) purely by its striking presentation, not noticing that there’s much more to it than what meets the eye. Dig past the technicolour mango mousse to find an assortment of coconut jelly, pandan cream, and fresh persimmons that translates to a deliciously fruity and creamy summer dessert.

Once again riffing off the Australian immigrant experience, the Milo and Mandarin Biscuit Pudding ($16.9) is a grown-up take on a nostalgic flavour. The dark, malty mousse melts into a mellow centre of chestnut ice cream, and a hidden dollop of bitter mandarin near the bottom adds a distinctly winter flavour to the dessert. The addition of puffed rice feels a bit superfluous, especially when there’s already an excellent chocolate biscuit lining the base. But otherwise, it’s a well-crafted dessert that does the Aussie staple justice.