Don’s Place

202 Commercial Rd
Prahran, VIC 3181
https://www.dons.place/

Thank god for Don’s Place. We were wandering out in the cold, dinner plans having fallen through, when I remembered that Don’s Place is just around the corner, and is good for walk-ins. And despite it being a busy Saturday night, they managed to squeeze us in within 15 minutes, and even got us a drink whilst we waited. This place is as friendly as it is loud, filled with punters heartily enjoying the snacky plates and the daggy-but-cool vibes. Don’s is an absolute joy, and I’m not just saying that because they rescued me in my hour of need.

Rating: 15.5/20 – is don, is great.
Must-eat: mussel toast omg.
Kinda cool but kinda not: the amazing granny crockery.

The Smoked Mussel and Nduja Toast ($9ea) came recommended as our waitron’s fave but omg, I was not prepared for how delicious this was. The thick, buttered toast came topped with huge, succulent mussels, their smokiness amplified but the spicy nduja, giving the seafood a meaty flavour without the heaviness. A sprinkling of dried seaweed adds a subtly briny dimension, whilst the spoonful of relish breaks through the richness. Decadent but unfussy, this was an absolute rip-roaring start to the meal.

Following the decadent but unfussy brief, the Potato Pavé (8ea) is the epitome of high-low cooking, The wafer-thin slices of potato were precisely cut and meticulously fried for that crunchy-creamy contrast that falls into melty layers, and the accompanying sharp shallots and an unexpectedly tangy egg yolk emulsion adds elegance without heaviness. But also, let’s be honest – this is a love child between chips and roasties, and would also be great scoffed down at the end of a long, booze-soaked night. God bless potatoes.

If Don’s is known for anything, it’s their Handmade Pasta on a Spoon ($9ea). Though the offering varies – sometimes it’s a single, fat raviolo, other times it’s a cheesy swirl of cacio e pepe – one thing that stays constant is the subversive delight this evokes, of sneaking a spoonful of leftovers from the fridge late at night. This time around its chewy spaghetti noodles, tossed through a white fennel sausage ragu with cime di rapa. It’s amazingly umami with a rich warmth from the fennel, and there’s just a hint of broth that infuses the pasta with the slow-cooked flavours. I’m mad that this isn’t being done as a main-sized dish, but hey, that’s probably what they’re going for.

Mains here are succinct, usually with only two options at the most. But the Fried Chicken Sandwich ($19) – and its eggplant alternative – has been a stalwart from the start. The assertively crunchy crumb hides a juicy centre, and is a textbook sandwich when combined with the buttermilk-dressed slaw and squishy bun. What really makes this stand out however is the jalapeno jam, which adds an unexpected spicy sweetness that brings to mind chicken and waffles, drizzled in hot honey.

This was meant to be an Autumn Salad ($24), except they were out of celeriac, and by the looks of it, almost out of rainbow chard too. So what this ended up being was a plate of mushrooms – not that I minded. Briskly charred over flames to release the flavours, these seasonal oyster mushrooms were richly earthy, and indulgently paired with fluffy cow curd. I wouldn’t really call it a salad but, hey, no one likes a pedant.