Gaon Gamasot Gomtang

Shop 2, 23 Koornang Rd
Carnegie, VIC 3163

Gaon Gamasot Gomtang represents some of the things I love the most about Melbourne. It’s not flashy or trendy or groundbreaking. It is just two people (though to be fair, one of them is an ex-Nobu chef) who want to bring the simple comforts of their childhood meals to a city of homesick expats and curious diners. The focus here is Gomtang – light, nourishing beef soup simmered for days in cast iron gamasot, though there’s also the option to augment the meal with a selection of BBQ meats. It is pure soul food, and the cramped but cosy shop, as well as warm hospitality, reminds me of the small family-run eateries that are so common in Korea. Places like Gaon are – both metaphorically and literally – what makes the cultural stew of Melbourne so enriching and diverse.

Rating: 13/20 – SYOS (salt your own soup – it’s a common thing in Korea).
Hint: get the clear soup if you want pho vibes, and the milky soup if you prefer tonkotsu ramen.

The classic Gomtang ($26) is a crystal-clear broth, distilled from hours of slow-simmering beef bones. It is straight up home-styled soul food, perfect for the wet days, the sick days, the sad days, and the cosy homely days. You can just sip on it as is, but I prefer adding in a bowl of rice to soak up the restorative goodness, and slurping up the mixture alongside thinly sliced brisket, and the occasional bite of warmly spiced turnip kimchi to bring out the richness of the beef. Don’t forget to season your soup to taste!

The Tteok Mandu Guk ($26) utilises the seolleongtang as its base – a milky, collagen-rich broth made from simmering ox bones for 2 days. I absolutely adored the rich, unctuous mouthful of the stock, which nourishing and restorative. The mandu were perfect – neat, plump parcels of pork and chive – and I loved the quality of the rice cakes, evidenced by the way they remained chewy throughout. I was also very interested in how the handful of dried seaweed subtly but distinctly changed the flavour profile of the broth, compared to the spring onion used in the gomtang. This would be my choice if you want something a little heavier to sit on your stomach on a blustery day.

Baechujeon ($8) is like the simplest form of the kimchi pancake. It is a whole battered Chinese cabbage leaf, deep fried and cut into bite sized pieces, to eat dipped in a tangy soy sauce. It is simple but moreish, and a nice little treat to go with the virtuousness of the soup.