Grossi Grill

80 Bourke St
Melbourne, VIC 3000
https://www.florentino.com.au/grill/

I’ve been a huge fan of Grossi Cellar Bar since the early days, but it’s only recently that I’ve discovered the delights of Florentino (which let’s be honest, was out of budget for a loooong time). So to complete the trifecta, I had to check out Grossi Grill, the Tuscan-influenced bistro. And lo and behold, it is also perfection. Though less spendy than Florentino, it is still a gorgeous venue for a special night out, with starched tablecloths, flawless service, and elevated Italian cooking unlike anything else. Or y’know, treat yourself and have a solo steak dinner on a Monday night like the bloke at the next table – live your best life.

Rating: 15/20 – mini florentino.
WTF: saw my first huge restaurant argument the night we went; there was lots of angry Italian between what seemed like parents and their adult son and he stormed out, but subsequently returned and helped dad(?) with his walker. very confused, not sure what happened.

I usually avoid zucchini flowers because, why waste of money on what amounts to greasy cream cheese tempura? But this isn’t just any other place; this is Grossi Grill, and their Fior di Zucca ($36) is worth every penny. The puffy batter showcases the delicate sweetness of the zucchini stem, and the bulb is stuffed with the melting decadence of anchovy-infused mozzarella. Zucchini flowers are such a classic, but the addition of anchovy makes it feel fresh again.

The Cuttlefish Special ($37) makes use of the kitchen’s charcoal Josper oven, imparting a vivid char to the delicate seafood. Paired alongside is the most amazing capsicum sauce that balances sweet and smoke, whilst a small scoop of cuttlefish tartare delicately contrasts the more robust flavours and textures. If I had to criticize, I’d say there’s an awful lot going on with this plate, but despite being rather disparate, all the elements come together well.

Not to be vulgar, but for the prices we’re paying? There had better be free bread, and it had better be good. Grossi delivers on both fronts, the thickly sliced sourdough boasting a complex ferment, paired with a surprisingly rich olive oil that turns a simple bread course into something a little more decadent.

It aint Italian without pasta, and for something a little different (despite the call of the duck pappardelle), I tried the Ravioli Mugellani ($38), which they kindly split into 2 serves for us. And oh yeah, this was so buttery and decadent, the creamy potato filling and funky pecorino balanced out with sweet balsamic and thinly sliced pear. And the roasted hazelnuts? Just divine.

As a Tuscan grill, there’s understandably a heavy focus on the steaks here. The Union Station Scotch Fillet ($62) is succulent perfection, with just a dash of salt to bring out the fatty umami. It comes with a delicious red wine jus on the side, but there’s nothing like a dab of mustard to go with a good steak (ask for it – the mustard service is lovely).

As a side, I would highly recommend the Insalata ($16), combining the refreshing bitterness of radicchio with the crunch of cos, dressed in a creamy mustard vinaigrette, and topped with loads of parmesan. Because hey, you’re here to treat yourself.