Hazel

164 Flinders Lane
Melbourne, VIC 3000
https://hazelrestaurant.com.au/

Hazel is one of the many produce-driven, higher end modern Australian dining experiences that have sprung up over the last few years. So whilst it’s not breaking new ground, it’s treading the well-worn path with panache. The downstairs will be instantly familiar to any Melbournian, its warm minimalism and lofty ceilings bearing the same DNA as the OG all-day modern Australian diner, Cumulus Inc. But it’s the upstairs that really shows off what the historical Richard Allen Building has to offer. The expansive dining room is truly stunning, overlooking the open kitchen, which boasts a Josper oven promising smoky deliciousness to come. But the focus at Hazel is a good time, and the clean lines of the imposing building are softened with kitschy touches; the velvet floral banquettes are especially charming, and you can’t help but admire their cheek for their inclusion of animal-print cushions in what’s originally such a stern space. It’s a great choice if you want a sense of occasion, without too much of the accompanying formality.

Rating: 14/20 – bit pricy but very lovely.
Can we talk about: how awesome this resurgence of granny plates is? not only are the ones at hazel immaculate, they are also lovingly thrifted!

You’re encouraged to start your meal with a procession of snacks, so I decided to sample them all. The Crab Hash + Aioli ($14) was a fancy take on the crab cake with an impeccable crumb, though I can’t help but feel a bit short-changed by how small it was for the price.

The Pecorino Custard + Brioche ($10) was another tasty if overpriced bite, the smooth, funky cheese very moreish spread over the buttery brioche.

Now this here, the Pork Cracker + Cod Roe ($11) was so tasty that I’m happy to overlook the price. It’s an extra bougie take pork crackling and cod roe dip, and the balance of fattiness and briny umami is just exquisite.

Finally, the lightest of the lot was the Raw Fish, Witlof + Apple ($13ea) – a bright, tart ceviche of kingfish, with a hidden dollop of anchovy paste to bring out the ocean flavours.

The Halloumi, Hot Honey + CGP Roquette ($22) is pure pleasure, the combination of salty, squeaky cheese and spiced honey hitting a balance between decadence and moreishness that makes you long to pick up the entire slab and have at it like the rat that you are, you rat.

After seeing it on the next table, the Wood Roasted Pork Belly ($52) was an easy choice of main. And it was cooked to absolute perfection, the layers of meat and fat succulent and full of smoky flavour, capped off with a layer of crunchy, golden crackling. The tangy mustard green on the side is an unorthodox but delicious way to balance out the richness, whilst a mash or parsnip adds a delicate sweetness.

For sides, I doubled down and got the veggie main of Sugarloaf Cabbage, Cultured Cream + Hazelnut ($32), which comes slow-roasted into tender layers, dripping with butter. It is massively decadent, and will keep even the most determined carnivore happy.

Rounding out the meal, there’s a delicious Honey Tart + Cultured Cream ($17). The filling is beautifully floral and rich, and the cultured cream brings a note of musk that together with the honey, becomes reminiscent of a cheese plate. Very clever.

I love it when there’s a good selection of vermouth on the menu, and I was recommended a slightly more unusual Saison ‘Spring Rhubarb’ Vermouth ($16), which trades the warmth and richness of red wine for a lighter, more summery palate.

There are also some great NoLo options, and the Quince and Kina Spritz ($18) was a refreshing sip, the quince giving the tart, citrus flavours a more nuanced note.