Pappa Laksa

26 Burwood Highway
Burwood, VIC 3125

Pappa Laksa does one thing, and does it well. Actually, that’s not quite true. Though their specialty is obviously noodle soup, they also offer a handful of other traditional Malaysian dishes, and all equally as well done as their namesake dish. The service isn’t too shabby either, adding to the warm unfussy atmosphere. I’m very glad to have Pappa Laksa close to where I live, and it certainly deserves the glowing shout-out that Broadsheet gave.

Rating: 13/20 – quality laksa.
To-order: apparently the rendang laksa is extra amazing. also the teh tarik is fantastic.

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Edit 06/08/24: I’ve since come back and can confirm the rendang laksa is lovely for those who want an extra rich curry hit with their noodles, and their hor fun a great alternative for a mellower CKT.

Though most people can agree on when a laksa is good, what makes a laksa perfect is quite subjective. The Pappa Special Laksa ($18.8) hits every mark in my books, with a rich, complex broth, and coconut milk that adds a subtle sweet creaminess, without muting the spices or overshadowing the subtleties of the soup. I love the extra punchiness that comes with the dollop of spicy sambal, which adds a compelling briny funk.

This laksa also deserves bonus points for the generous serve. There’s a great range of toppings, as well as the mandatory combination of thin vermicelli and thick egg noodles, both cooked to al dente perfection.

A Malaysian restaurant has not earned its stripes unless it does a good Char Koay Teow ($18.8). And Pappa, once again, gets it all right. The wide, chewy noodles are tossed through with tender squid and fatty slices of Chinese sausage, as well as fresh beansprouts for crunch. Flavoured with a savoury, spicy sauce, and wrapped in blistering wok hei, this is an excellent rendition of the classic dish. It’s even garnished with crispy fried lard and garlic, just to add that extra burst of richness.

They don’t do dessert here, but don’t sleep on the drinks – they’re just as good. The Teh Tarik ($5, hot) is amazing, with a frothy cap that would do a cappuccino proud, and a forward bitterness that’s balanced out by a good slug of condensed milk. Or try the Ice Cendol ($6.5), the coconut milk-based drink sweetened with nutty brown sugar syrup, and layered with all manner of chewy goodies.