Poodle

81-83 Gertrude St
Fitzroy, VIC 3065
https://poodlefitzroy.com.au/

If you loved Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca, then get a load of Poodle, the bologna disco’s French cousin. It follows the same formula of reinterpreting traditional dishes into something more freewheeling and indulgent, and why not? It certainly put Rocco’s on the best-of radar. I will admit, I’m probably not the best person to be objectively reviewing a French restaurant, as Bistrot 916 is probably the only one I’ve ever truly loved (I didn’t even love Hubert, and apparently it’s a sin to even think that). I will however say that this is a really nice spot for a special occasion, or a great way to treat yourself to a snazzy night out. The old-school vibes are truly decadent, whilst the deliberately casual touches keep things light and fun. If nothing else, come for the excellent snacking.

Rating: 13.5/20 – apparently i’m biased against french food.
Stay for: the ginger and pineapple upside-down cake – a warm, spicy chunk of winter indulgence.

The Pork and Bacon Croquette ($9ea) is the diggity, definitely get it. It is meaty and smoky, topped with a thick, dill-flecked buttermilk sauce and tangy chopped pickles. And the crumbing is so light you could swear it’s not deep-fried.

A lighter alternative is the Spanner Crab and Cod Roe Profiterole ($11), which though tasty, is more exciting on paper than it is in real life. You do get a nice generous chunk of crab meat on top though.

The Fried Peppers ($24) is rather special. I thought this was going to be more of a Padron peppers situation, and whilst there’s definitely sweet, smoky blistered peppers, its dressed with a richly tangy sesame sauce. Best of all is the addition of crunchy bits, which lends a moreish textural element to each bite.

I had ordered the House-made Spent Coffee & Rye Sourdough ($7) in the hopes that it’ll be similar to the bread at Sixpenny, which may just be my most favourite bread course in the world. Unfortunately this one doesn’t live up to the legend, but is still a good quality, hearty loaf with an added element of earthiness.

I’m usually a steak purist, but the 250g Vintage Beef Scotch ($51) sounded pretty good with its accompaniment of pepper sauce and potato straws. And dang, I never thought I’d prefer something without pepper and potatoes – two ingredients that I usually add/eat with impunity. The potato straws were more dry and fiddly than anything else, and my god, whoever made this pepper sauce must really, really love pepper. It’s too much even for me, and I will add a healthy grind of pepper to almost anything I make. The steak itself is pretty good I’ll admit, but frankly it would’ve done better without the accompaniments.

Surprisingly, the Cauliflower Miso Gratin ($16) was also rather underwhelming, leaning closer to greasy yet bland, rather than the rich, sticky winter rib-hugger I had expected.

If you’re after rich and sticky, the Ginger and Pineapple Upside Down Cake ($18) is the one to get. Stuffed full of spices and served warm with a dollop of cream, this is a perfect cold-weather dessert.

I loved the Maraschino Cherry Sour ($12, non-alcoholic) in theory, but for the second time this meal, an excess of black pepper ruins the moment, leaving an unpleasant medicinal tinge to what should’ve been a fun, flirty drink.