Elio’s Place

1/238 Flinders Lane
Melbourne, VIC 3000
https://www.eliosplace.com.au/

Remember the champs that brought us Greta, aka the home of breakfast charcuterie and dinner brisket sandwiches with vino? They’ve gone all-in on the all-day dining thing, and now we have them to thank for the marvellous Elio’s Place. Tucked in a heritage building on Flinders Lane, this unexpected rabbit warren beckons throughout the day – a croissant and coffee pick-me-up mid-morning, a quick drink during their apertivo hour, or maybe a late-night supper of steak and crispy potatoes after a show – Elio’s is good for it all. I’m especially impressed with how well they nail the all-day feel, with its instantly cosy and welcoming vibe, that nevertheless manages to feel as sophisticated as if it was plucked out of the most stylish neighbourhood in Paris.

Rating: 15/20 – all day goodness
Must-try: burrata with chilli crisp, ox tongue skewers, and omg the crispy potatoes.
That’s what she said: the virgin mercy (it’s one of the mocktails)

We’ve all had our share of burrata by now, but this is the first time I’ve had anything like Burrata, Artichokes, Crispy Chilli Oil ($25). The contrast between the cool, creamy curds and the heat of the chilli crisp is utterly delightful, and the artichoke (both pureed and fried) provides a lovely grounding earthiness.

The Ox Tongue Skewers ($9ea) are the absolute bomb, the thinly sliced meat melting in the mouth after a light char from the grill. The mustardy dressing has just enough tang to balance out the fattiness of the beef, and the chervil adds a bite of freshness.

The Poached Octopus ($22) is a rustic, joyous celebration of summer, the chewy octopus and waxy potatoes dressed with a handful of crunchy pickled fennel, and a glug of good olive oil. Pair it with something light and sparkling to be immediately transported to the Mediterranean seaside.

They have their own House-Made Focaccia ($4ea) here, but we must’ve got some from the crustier end, because this was way too tough and chewy to be eaten easily. A shame really, because there were some great flavours here, and I heartily approve of the generous amounts of olive oil used.

This Black Angus Flank ($36) must be the cheapest steak in town, but what it sacrifices on price, it doesn’t sacrifice on flavour. Being a working cut, the meat is leaner, and has a satisfying bite and plenty of beefiness to it. I also really liked the bushel of charred broad bean leaves on top, which when dressed with sherry vinaigrette, adds some welcome balance to the meat.

OMG YES THE CRISPY POTATOES ($13). THEY ARE FLUFFY AND CRUNCHY AND JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF SALTY AND POSSIBLY THE BEST ‘BASIC’ POTATO SIDE I’VE EVER HAD. You get some excellent aioli to go with it but seriously, don’t even bother.

Wrapping things up is a simple but delicious Chocolate Cake ($16), which was rich with cocoa but not too dense, and drizzled with the most intoxicating sticky bourbon caramel.

I love the dedicated vermouth menu here, and I picked up my favourite Cocci Americano Bianco ($14), which was sweet and light, but nevertheless with a lingering complexity.

If you can bring yourself to say the name (though to be fair, the names of the Gelato Messina specials are spicier than this), I would also recommend the Virgin Mercy ($14). It’s a deliciously sparkling, summery drink of strawberry and pink grapefruit, the saccharine and floral notes balanced out by the hint of astringency from the citrus.