Moonhouse

282 Carlisle St
Balaclava, VIC 3183
https://www.moonhouse.com.au/

Most people know The Commune Group for Hanoi Hannah and Tokyo Tina – two of the very first restaurants in Melbourne that put Modern Asian on the map. But whereas those are starting to feel a little tired these days, now that Modern Asian is practically synonymous with Australian food, I was blown away by the newer Firebird. So when I found out about Moonhouse (also one of their more recent ventures), I was very eager to give their take on Cantonese a crack. Housed in a venerable old bank building, Moonhouse’s style points lives up to its lofty name. It brings to mind the Sydney behemoth Mr Wong, but without the affected dramatics. The wow factor is there, yet it still maintains a warm, casual intimacy. Food-wise, we’re talking a gentrified version of what you’d expect to get at a local antiquated Chinese joint called Jade Palace or Golden Dynasty or something similar, with a little bit of yum cha thrown into the mix. It’s not as showstopping as what’s on offer at Firebird, but it does strike a good balance between familiar and innovative that should please most palates.

Rating: 13/20 – new old Chinese.
What to order: no specific recommendations, but it’s all pretty safe.

The Tofu Two Ways ($16.5) may be someone else’s nightmare (hello, K), but it is music to my ears. The light, crisp cubes of wobbly tofu are vigorously dressed with an herb emulsion and plenty of fried shallots, packing each piece with flavour and texture. The second incarnation comes in the form of pureed silken tofu, which as a sauce, adds an unexpectedly rich and creamy note.

I love a good chilli wonton, and the Chicken and Prawn Wonton ($17.5) lived up to expectations, with slippery casings, chunky filling, and a chilli sauce spiked generously (and correctly) with black vinegar. Though, can someone tell me why no matter how well-done fancy dumplings are, they just somehow never quite live up traditional versions you get at yum cha?

I love the concept of the Macadamia and Eggplant Dip, Chinese Donut ($12.5), because why should the latter be restricted to soy milk and congee? What I don’t love is the double-frying of said donuts, which renders them oily and so crispy they verge on tough. With that said though, they do go well with the smooth, mellow dip, especially if you add in a hearty dollop of the phenomenal house-made chilli crisp that resides on each table.

Poor Crispy Lemon Chicken ($29); so often written off as one of the duds, one of the fakers in Chinese cuisine, when in reality it’s delightful when done well. Instead of stodgy battered mystery meat in an overly sweet sauce, this is decidedly a cutlet of plump chicken, lightly dredged to make the most of the crispiness of the skin, then drizzled in a slightly sticky, and incredibly aromatic lemon sauce. It’s still comfort food, but no one will judge you for getting it here.

The Kung Pao Brussel Sprouts ($15.5) are absolutely awesome, the caramelised brassicas soaked with a deliciously moreish sauce that expertly balances sweet, tangy, and savoury. Dump this on a bowl of white rice and call it a main.

Yes it may be a bit daggy, but who can resist a good ol’ Fried Milk Tea Ice Cream ($16.5), especially with the bitter tannin notes adding interest alongside the caramelised toffee cream.

Once again, I have proven to myself that I just can’t drink. The Yuzu Negroni ($22) is a lovely Asian twist on the classic cocktail, with a warm slick of coriander oil complementing the citrus notes (a very interesting combination of yuzu and Davidson plum here) and bitter botanicals. But it was just too strong for me, even after I carefully watered it down.