Flyover Fritterie

88 Regent St
Redfern, NSW 2016
https://www.flyoverfritterie.com.au/

When you’re sick of the usual three-curry-and-naan combo, Flyover Fritterie is where you want to be heading. Modelled after the endless street food stands sheltered under the overpasses – flyovers – of India, this place is all about the snacky things. And don’t forget about the drinks either; the chai is slow-brewed with fresh spices, and so much richer for it. Watch out if you’re on a budget though; the final bill can quickly add up to something alarming for a meal that feels cheap and cheerful, but I suppose they have to make the Redfern Rent somehow.

Rating: 13/20 – redfern fritterie.
Hot tip: don’t get both the Thandaai (drink) and the Rose Cardamom Kheer (dessert) – they’re basically the same thing. (Or do – they’re also both very delicious.)

As you’d expect, the Seasonal Mixed Fritters ($21.9) are the jam here, in all its craggly, golden (but not greasy!) glory. The chickpea-based batter is addictively savoury, and it’s nice to have a good range of fried veggies, though it’s hard to go past the traditional onion. Give these a good dunk in the mint and tamarind chutneys – that’s what makes them really sing. And if you’re a spice-lover, make sure to add a  Chilli Fritter ($3.5) to your order.

The other jam here would be the toasted sandwiches, and the Tikka Paneer Jaffle ($24.9) is especially popular. This here is the ultimate glow-up of your classic cheese toastie, the centre absolutely chockers with a scalding mix of thickly spiced curry sauce and squeaky cheese cubes. Add in the fritters you get alongside, and there’s enough for the emptiest of stomachs.

Snack-wise, the Mushroom Momos ($17.8, 3pcs) may seem steeply priced, but they’re a worthy investment. Most impressive would have to be the meticulous balance between the punchy, spicy sauce and the delicate wrappers, but I was almost as wowed by the unexpectedly hearty and umami filling.

On the more traditional end of the spectrum is the Aloo Tikki ($16.9). Although the sauces and garnishes were top-notch, the potato patty lacked the satisfying crunch that’s so critical to the dish. Perfectly good, but not worth the price this time around – not when you can get the same for about a third of the price at Chatkazz.

The dessert selection is comparatively slim, but still plenty interesting. The Rose Cardamom Kheer ($11.9) if you want something on the lighter end of the spectrum, and it takes the form of a fragrant and near-drinkable rice pudding. But if you’re looking for something indulgent to go with your chai, the Sea Salt Besan Laddoo ($4.9ea) is phenomenal. Made with chickpea flour and, more importantly, about 40% ghee, this is like concentrated shortbread with just the most addictive little hint of salt.

Drinks-wise, the Chai ($4.9, hot) slowly bubbling away on the front counter is a no-brainer. It also comes iced, or in a chocolate variety. More exotic is the Thandaai ($9.9, 330mL), a celebratory drink heady with warming spices and intoxicating florals. I was especially fond of the inclusion of poppy seeds, as well as the less orthodox addition of chia, which gave the drink a very moreish bit of texture.